How to: Remove a Popcorn Ceiling (Video)

A short video on "How to remove a popcorn ceiling"

Types of drywall

Standard Drywall Standard Drywall or “White Board”- “Standard” drywall is what is most commonly used on drywall projects and comes in various sizes ranging from ¼” to 1” thick. The length is usually anywhere from 8’ or up to 16 feet long, and the width is usually 48”. As with most sheets of drywall the long sides or edges are typically tapered which make it easier to conceal drywall tape and joint compound during finishing. Moisture Resistant Drywall “Green Board” Drywall- Green board drywall has a green paper covering that makes it more resistant to moisture. This type of-of drywall is often used in bathroom, kitchen, and laundry room walls. Green Board is not 100% waterproof, so be aware that this product should not be used if it’s going to come in contact with water. “Blue Board” Drywall- Blue board drywall is another moisture resistant drywall that is used more for veneer plastering. It has higher water and mold resistance as well as unique absorption qualities. This type of drywall is most often used in bathrooms and other rooms with a lot of moisture. Paperless Drywall- Paperless drywall consists of gypsum in between fiberglass instead of paper. The fiberglass offers a much higher resistance to moisture, mold, and mildew than paper and is often used in areas of high humidity. Although it has higher moisture resistance, it should not be used in areas where the wall will have a direct exposure to water. Purple Drywall- If there are areas where water contact is likely, purple drywall is a great choice. Purple drywall offers the same advantages of regular drywall with a higher moisture and mold resistance. Cement Board- Cement board, is a popular choice for areas with high water contact such as bathroom and shower walls. It is a solid base for ceramic tile. It is made with cement that is reinforced with fibers making it a very strong board and solid base. Fire Resistant “Type X” Drywall- Type X drywall is commonly known as the “fire-resistant” drywall, is made with a gypsum core that is reinforced with special noncombustible glass fibers. It usually is ⅝” thick and has a 1 hour fire rating. “Type C” Drywall- “Type C” drywall is usually ½” or ⅝” thick and has a 2 thru 4-hour fire rating. More glass fibers are used to produce “Type C” than “Type X” drywall. “Eco-Friendly” Drywall Enviroboard- “Enviroboard”- consists of compressed fiber panels using ecologically safe materials that are usually waste fibers from newspaper or agriculture. EcoRock- “EcoRock” is composed of different recycled industrial byproducts such as slag, kiln dust and fly ash that are combined with filler and water which then binds the materials into a pourable paste. One of the major benefits of “EcoRock” is high resistance to mold and termites.

Don't get the wrong mud for your drywall project.

A common mistake made by amateur drywallers and finishers is selecting the wrong mud. Use an “fast setting” compound for the first, second or each additional coat—except the final coat. The final coat it is recommended using a All-purpose/ pre mixed compound. It will go on smoothly and create a fine surface and sand easily. It is also not a bad idea to mix the premix mud with a electric drill and a paddle bit or "potato masher type mixer" if available. Adding a small amount of water may also help with a smooth application of compound to joints.

So... unless you’re an experienced taper, it is recommended you steer clear of “fast-setting,” or “hot,” 15/30/60/90 minute mud that dries very quickly. Hot mud can set up before you have a chance to smooth it out, and leave you with a lot of extra sanding.

Patching a hole in Drywall with a "Blowout Patch"

This is a extremely simple method of repairing holes in drywall without having to buy one of the expensive, cheesy drywall patch kits. And those mesh/metal drywall patches usually come out looking very amateurish. If done right this method will typically come out much smoother looking.

What you will need:

• Drywall joint compound - (premixed or bagged 20 thru 90 opinions will work)

•Drywall mud knife

•Mud pan

•Utility knife

• Measuring tape

• Pencil

•A scrap piece of drywall about 4"-6" larger than your holes width and height (to cut your patch from)

Step One: Measure the hole to be patched

Measure the dimensions of the hole to be patched. If the hole is round it is sometimes easier to square it up using a drywall keyhole saw. 

Step Two: Transfer dimensions onto scrap drywall and cut patch.

On the under/ back side of the scrap drywall piece, Mark out the dimensions of the hole to be patched. 

Step Three: Score/ Cut and Peel

Once your patch is laid out, score/cut only the paper on the back side of your drywall piece. Then snap the drywall along the score lines and slowly peel/ remove the wallboard material leaving the front face paper attached to the patch. This acts as the drywall tape for the patch. (See picture) Note: the paper on the front side of your patch should overhang the hole by at least an inch and a half to two inches. (See picture)

Step four: Apply compound/mud

Apply compound/ mud around the hole to be patch. Then press the "blowout" patch into the mud. Using your drywall knife work the front side of your drywall patch's paper into the compound and smooth as you would normal joint tape. Once the paper is worked into the mud and smooth, You then apply a smooth coat over the entire patch. 

Step five: Sand and recoat

Finally... Once the compound has dried, sand raised edges and recoat until smooth. 

Dry sand vs. Wet sand

Everyone loves sanding drywall joints right? Hell no! For one the dust sanding drywall compound makes is out of control. And when doing repair work this can be a major problem. This dust is fine and gets everywhere and in everything. The best option that I have found when doing repair work is to do more, thin coats of drywall compound (making a point not to have too much access mud), and using a large wet sponge. I prefer the large yellow sanding sponges found at home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowe's. When wet sanding make sure you wring out as much water from the sponge as possible. And try not to get your wallboard too wet when sanding. Cleaning your sponge when it gets over saturated with compound. This process may take practice but once perfected a solution to the dust problem in a occupied area in need of drywall repairs needed.